boulderstoney.com

[hiatus]

Hey, first post here. I recently got back for a trip to red rocks. While climbing on sunny and steep wall, I couldn't help but notice the very solid seeming bolts in soft overhanging sandstone. I was intrigued, so I did a little research and came across the following thesis, written by a student in Australia:

http://www.chockstone.org/TechTips/SandstoneBolting.pdf

The article indicated that lead bolting in soft sandstone was common in the area, and the shear and tensile failure testing indicated acceptable safety margins when bolts were installed correctly.

In light of this, I was considering bolting a test route at stoney. I would use 10mm by 150 mm glue in eye bolts, with Hilti Hit-re 500 sd epoxy, on a vertical climb. If anyone has any input, such as good idea, bad idea, or recommendations of people to talk to, it would be greatly appreciated

[sowr]

I don't think you should put up a sport route at Stoney Point - however if you want to add three beautiful glue-ins at the appropriate location on top of Pink Drips (for a top rope anchor) I'll give you $50 for your trouble.
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Author - Urban Rock

[Spider]

Yes, please do not bolt lead routes at Stoney. There is no need since everything is available via TR.

Plenty of good rock in Santa Monica Mtns and out at Texas Canyon for this purpose.

In general there has been a tendency for climbers to bolt a lead route out of TR routes in various areas. This is overall wrong thinking. It is an unnecessary environmental impact lasting tens of thousands of years or more.
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Chris "Spider" Savage

[HardwareMan]

Did pink drops get the bolts?
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Interested in top-rope and trad only. No sport bolts