View previous topic :: View next topic |
Author |
Message |
hiatus NooB
Joined: 20 Feb 2011 Posts: 1 Location: los angeles, ca
|
Posted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 12:36 pm Post subject: Bolts? |
|
|
Hey, first post here. I recently got back for a trip to red rocks. While climbing on sunny and steep wall, I couldn't help but notice the very solid seeming bolts in soft overhanging sandstone. I was intrigued, so I did a little research and came across the following thesis, written by a student in Australia:
http://www.chockstone.org/TechTips/SandstoneBolting.pdf
The article indicated that lead bolting in soft sandstone was common in the area, and the shear and tensile failure testing indicated acceptable safety margins when bolts were installed correctly.
In light of this, I was considering bolting a test route at stoney. I would use 10mm by 150 mm glue in eye bolts, with Hilti Hit-re 500 sd epoxy, on a vertical climb. If anyone has any input, such as good idea, bad idea, or recommendations of people to talk to, it would be greatly appreciated |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
sowr Super Human
Joined: 06 Feb 2006 Posts: 16 Location: La Crescenta
|
Posted: Thu Feb 16, 2012 8:18 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I don't think you should put up a sport route at Stoney Point - however if you want to add three beautiful glue-ins at the appropriate location on top of Pink Drips (for a top rope anchor) I'll give you $50 for your trouble. _________________ Author - Urban Rock |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
Spider Mere Human
Joined: 14 Nov 2006 Posts: 5 Location: Sunday Mornings
|
Posted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 6:55 am Post subject: |
|
|
Yes, please do not bolt lead routes at Stoney. There is no need since everything is available via TR.
Plenty of good rock in Santa Monica Mtns and out at Texas Canyon for this purpose.
In general there has been a tendency for climbers to bolt a lead route out of TR routes in various areas. This is overall wrong thinking. It is an unnecessary environmental impact lasting tens of thousands of years or more. _________________ Chris "Spider" Savage |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
HardwareMan NooB
Joined: 08 Jun 2013 Posts: 4
|
Posted: Sun Jun 09, 2013 12:38 am Post subject: |
|
|
Did pink drops get the bolts? _________________ Interested in top-rope and trad only. No sport bolts |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
|